Trip #5 (Part II) - THE WINDMILLS

So, if you are familiar with Cervantes' novel Don Quixote de la Mancha you might also be familiar with the comical episode when the knight errant mistakes the windmills for giants and proceeds to attack them. Well, here are examples of those windmills.

I always take the opportunity to sit with the students at the base of one of the windmills and read to them the episode from the novel. Without fail it is ALWAYS windy! Here is an English version of that moment in the life of don Quixote de la Mancha and his squire Sancho:

At this point they came in sight of thirty forty windmills that there are on plain, and as soon as Don Quixote saw them he said to his squire, "Fortune is arranging matters for us better than we could have shaped our desires ourselves, for look there, friend Sancho Panza, where thirty or more monstrous giants present themselves, all of whom I mean to engage in battle and slay, and with whose spoils we shall begin to make our fortunes; for this is righteous warfare, and it is God's good service to sweep so evil a breed from off the face of the earth."

"What giants?" said Sancho Panza.

"Those thou seest there," answered his master, "with the long arms, and some have them nearly two leagues long."

"Look, your worship," said Sancho; "what we see there are not giants but windmills, and what seem to be their arms are the sails that turned by the wind make the millstone go."

"It is easy to see," replied Don Quixote, "that thou art not used to this business of adventures; those are giants; and if thou art afraid, away with thee out of this and betake thyself to prayer while I engage them in fierce and unequal combat."

So saying, he gave the spur to his steed Rocinante, heedless of the cries his squire Sancho sent after him, warning him that most certainly they were windmills and not giants he was going to attack. He, however, was so positive they were giants that he neither heard the cries of Sancho, nor perceived, near as he was, what they were, but made at them shouting, "Fly not, cowards and vile beings, for a single knight attacks you."

A slight breeze at this moment sprang up, and the great sails began to move, seeing which Don Quixote exclaimed, "Though ye flourish more arms than the giant Briareus, ye have to reckon with me."

So saying, and commending himself with all his heart to his lady Dulcinea, imploring her to support him in such a peril, with lance in rest and covered by his buckler, he charged at Rocinante's fullest gallop and fell upon the first mill that stood in front of him; but as he drove his lance-point into the sail the wind whirled it round with such force that it shivered the lance to pieces, sweeping with it horse and rider, who went rolling over on the plain, in a sorry condition. Sancho hastened to his assistance as fast as his ass could go, and when he came up found him unable to move, with such a shock had Rocinante fallen with him.

"God bless me!" said Sancho, "did I not tell your worship to mind what you were about, for they were only windmills? and no one could have made any mistake about it but one who had something of the same kind in his head."

"Hush, friend Sancho," replied Don Quixote, "the fortunes of war more than any other are liable to frequent fluctuations; and moreover I think, and it is the truth, that that same sage Friston who carried off my study and books, has turned these giants into mills in order to rob me of the glory of vanquishing them, such is the enmity he bears me; but in the end his wicked arts will avail but little against my good sword." (Don Quixote de la Mancha, Book 1, Chapter VIII).

Trip #5  (Part I) - TOLEDO

Beautiful Toledo. Home of the three cultures: Jews, Arabes, and Christians. Inspiration for the great painter El Greco. Home to Kings and Queens, Caliphs and Rabbis.

Toledo is one of our favorite cities. It still maintains the charm of a medieval city with its narrow streets, Jewish quarter, synagogues, and gothic churches. This year, like in previous years, we have planned our trip to correspond with the celebration of Corpus Christi. This celebration involves many celebrations and processions. The city is decorated with "toldos" or tents that cover the streets where, during the principle procession of the celebration, the faithful bring the "custodia" from the Cathedral.

During previous visits we have only had the chance to see the evening parade of the "gigantes" or "giants." Fortunately, we managed to land on the Thursday of Corpus Christi and able to see many of the celebrations and processions associated with this day.

First, on Wednesday before Corpus the local children gather at the entrance to the Cathedral where they place bouquets of flowers and sing hymns.

After placing the flowers the children are taken to the hills surrounding Toledo to gather fragrant herbs that they then scatter on the streets along the procession route. The effect is that as people and animals travel along the path they crush the herbs causing the air to become permeated with fragrant smells. For some, it is a very pleasant experience. But if you have allergies the experience isn't as pleasant!!!!

Homes and businesses along the procession route are decorated with flowers and banners.

During the Wednesday prior to Corpus there is a parade. It is headed up by the creature below that goes along the path squirting water at the crowd. It is known as the "Mulaguita."

What follows is a parade of "gigantes" representing every aspect of society from the monarchy to the peasant, including an array of historical figures.

On Thursday, June 4, the grand procession wound its way through Toledo. It began with the military moving through the streets to clear the path. Soon, large groups started to move through the streets, each one being a "cofradía" or guild. Each guild represents a group (e.g., professors) or traditional guild associated with the history of Toledo (e.g., descendants of Mozarabes).

The group of women above were particularly intriguing to me. They are volunteer nurses who go to Lourdes France to assist those who go there to bath in the healing waters located there.

Walking along the path were groups of men and women, the latter known as "manolas."

Also participating in the procession are all the children who received their First Communion during the previous year. The little girls dressed all in white and the little boys in military uniforms.

Just before the arrival of the "custodia," the priests and novice priests associated with the Cathedral appear...

Then, the "custodia" appears...

 Behind the "custodia" march city and county officials and representatives of the military...

The procession concludes when the "custodia" returns to the Cathedral, greeted by applauses and singing from those gathered there. There were several hundred people inside the Cathedral with cameras flashing...

I guess that I should show you a little of the Cathedral.  Here are some interior shots:

The photo above is looking toward the back of the Cathedral. The altar there is where the original Mozarabic altar sat and is the site of a pillar associated with a miracle.

Above is the "Transparente" of the Cathedral where natural light streams in and illuminates the altar (above) dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Above is the ceiling of the Sacristia. It holds some of the most significant paintings by El Greco. The most beautiful is one known as "El espolio." It was commissioned for the space where it resides. It reminds me of Minerva Tiechart's "Christ in the Red Robe."

In the choir is this "White Virgin." I include it here because of the Christ child's intimate and natural gesture of grabbing his mother's face so that she looks at him. I love some of these more intimate representations of the relationship between mother and child.

Casa-Museo Sorolla - A Sherman Adventure into Madrid

One of my favorite museums in Madrid is the one built around the paintings by Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (1863-1923). His style is soft and composed of a blend of beautiful blues, whites, and earth tones. A large percentage of his works reflect the peasant life of those residing along the sea coast in-and-around Valencia.

His home is a marvel. His paintings and personal effects occupy every room. When you enter you feel at home, in fact at the entrance that most guests would enter the home you find this arched entry with the word "Salve" (meaning "Welcome" in Latin). Sorolla was known for his hospitality.

So let's take a tour of the property and museum. Once you leave the bustling street, you enter a beautiful, walled garden space filled with fountains and sculptures.

Visitors are allowed to take pictures, so I have provided you with a few of my favorites:

"Instantly, Biarritz" (1906)

"Madre" (1895): The paintings is of Sorolla's wife and newborn child

"The Arrival of the Boats" (1905)

"Playa de Valencia" (1908)

"Bajo el toldo, Playa de Zarauz" (1910)

"Pescadoras valencianas" (1915)

"El baño del caballo" (1909)

"El bote blanco, Jávea" (1905)

I also took the liberty of taking a number of interior shots of the home. The first pictures are of his studio and the small bed where he would rest after long hours working.

In an alcove near the bed are many of Sorolla's "bosquejos" (sketches or previews) of his works. They are fascinating and often as beautiful as his full-sized works.

Finally, I could not help but take this picture of the many paintbrushes that he used to create his works. It was just too artistic in-and-of itself.