Avila is a beautiful, walled city just northwest of Madrid. Aside from its beautifully preserved Medieval walls (below), Avila was home to one of Spain's most revered Saints, Teresa de Jesús. 2015 is the 500th anniversary of her birth.
Saint Teresa is responsible for reforming the Carmelite order and establishing convents throughout the peninsula in the 16th century. These nuns in these convents became known as Descalzed Carmelites due, in part, to the strictures that Saint Teresa placed on those who took these vows. Saint Teresa practiced mysticism, which placed her in a category of Catholics who were under constant scrutiny by the Church for practices that challenged the established beliefs being espoused by during the difficult times of the Counterreformation. As a mystic, she, along with her confessor Saint John of the Cross, believed in the value of the soul and its divine origin and practiced "mental prayer." In her lifetime she was challenged by the male hierarchy and frowned upon for her teachings and practices. Some forty years after her death in Alba de Tormes (1622), Pope Gregory XV canonized Teresa de Jesús. In 1970 Pope Paul VI elevated her to the status of Doctor of the Church, one of the highest levels of sainthood that an individual can receive.
(Statue of Saint Teresa de Jesús)
Throughout the city there are reminders of her life. Below is the church, Parroquia de San Juan el Bautista, where she was baptized as a child.
The city's Cathedral boasts not only a beautiful building, but a part of the city's defensive wall. The apse of the Cathedral is part of the exterior rampart that surrounds the city (below). It is one of the first gothic Cathedrals in Spain.
There is some symbolic value to combining the wall with the Cathedral; the defense of the city was also a defense against those forces that would destroy Christianity; thus the Church played a part in preserving faith. One of the first things that I like to show the students are the mason's marks that cover the north wall. These marks were used for the placement of the stones as well as to identify the individual responsible for its creation.
The north walls to the Cathedral is known as the Puerta de los Apóstoles (the Apostle's Door). In the door's tympanum you will find the figure of an exalted Christ in the typical mandorla (the almond-shaped space). One of the interesting aspects of the tympanum is a scene located in the row immediately above the door to the far right. It is a representation of the Last Supper. If you look closely (second figure below) you see a women under the table. This is Mary the Magdalen washing Christ's feet. This scene is common among sculptors and painters of the time.
The interior of the Cathedral is magnificently decorated with a mottled stone (known as piedra sangrada; an oxidized stone).
Inititated in 1499 by Pedro de Berruguete, the retablo is an amazing example of gothic art. The central panel offers a depiction of the Crucified Christ with thieves on either side. If you look closely you will notice that the one on the left mimics the Savior's reposed posture, the one on the right writhes in pain. A good thing to remember is that the perspective of the painting must be from within and not from our vantage point as observers. Thus the thief to our left is on the Savior's right hand and the other on his left symbolic of their acceptance or rejection of the Truth.
On either side of the central figure are depictions from the life of Christ. One representation (in the right picture, the upper right corner) represents Christ's visit to "purgatory"; what for us might be interpreted as "spirit prision" (below).
Cathedrals were often the site of crypts, especially of important benefactors. One could determine the the level of importance and association with the crown. One pillow was good; two better. We have seen images with upwards of four pillows, often those who were archbishops or nobles. Note that at the feet of this individual is a dog. Dogs are the symbol of loyalty and fidelity. When placed on the tomb it was to indicated the individuals adherence and loyalty to the crown and to the Church.
If you look closely at the columns you will see that they are elaborately painted.
Finally, two additional items of interest. First, the crypt below is of Alonso de Madrigal, "El Tostado" (this being his paternal surname). He is revered for his knowledge and wisdom. His faithfulness to the Church earned him the Bishopric of Avila. There is a phrase often used that states "escribir más que el Tostado" ("write more than el Tostado") is used when someone wants to express the extreme knowledge and intellectual capacity of an individual.
Second, there is this little altar tucked away in the back corner. It reads, "Alms to marry (off) young orphan girls." To this day money is collected just for this cause!
Avila has some beautiful places to visit, but my favorite has always been the Iglesia de San Vicente.
With its bilateral chapels on either side of the apse, the transcept and cimborrio of the church. Along the cornise of the church you will see beautifully carved "canecillos"("corbels"), the little heads and figures that adorn the roofline, San Vicente is a magnificent example of a romanesque church.
The interior is no less amazing. The church sits on the site where Vicente's siblings, Sabina and Cristeta, were martyred for refusing to submit to paganism. Supposedly their remains can be found in the "cenotafio" located near the main altar (below).
One of my favorite details of the church is this sweet statue of the Virgin Mary and Christ child. Unlike so many representations that depict Christ as a stiff figure, this one shows him looking deeply into his mother's face as he reaches with his hand to caress her face. This is the intimate Christ that I imagine.
So that you know that not everything we do is "academic," we did take time to walk along the top of thc city walls. From this vantage point you can see all angles of the city both within and without. We had a great time!
And, here is a picture of some of the students we found wandering around the walls.
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