Trip #3 (Inter-Salamanca and León)

This is a little out of order, but I needed to include our brief visits to Toro and Tordesillas.

Toro is a small town just north of Salamanca. Its most significant claim to fame is the Colegiata de Toro. So, the bus let us off and we strolled along the main avenue of the old city to get to the church:

The Colegiata de Toro dates from the from 1170 and was completed sometime in the 13th century. Aside from its sheer beauty, the church is home to some amazing images.

In the nave of the church are two images: The angel Gabriel and the Virgin Mary. Gabriel looks towards the Virgin as if speaking to her. The Virgin stands looking thoughtfully. She is pregnant, resting her hand on her enlarged abdomen that houses the Savior of the World. In many Spanish texts she is identified as the "temple of God." This image is beautiful and very rare. It turns out that most of the images of the pregnant Virgin were ordered destroyed in the 18th century because it was believed that the image contradicted the Catholic Church's belief that Mary was forever virgin and immune of the "sins" of mortality, her perpetual purity. I love these two images more for what you find at their feet.

Under the pedestal supporting Gabriel is the creation of Eve. Here you see God taking her by the hand and pulling her from Adam's side. The relationship between Gabriel's calling to announce the the future birth of the Savior is shown in the paradise represented by the Garden of Eden and the creation of man and woman.

Under the feet of Mary is the a representation of the temptation of Adam and Eve by the serpent. The correspondence here is that the fruit of her womb will overcome that fall and bring salvation to the descendants of Adam and Eve.

The crown jewel of the church is its polychromatic entrance known as the Pórtico de la Majestad. This stunning door maintains the original colors from the 13th century.

Here are some details:

Another treasure is the painting, "La Virgin de la Mosca." Painted in the 13th century, though the fly may have been added at a later date. The potential message relates to the symbolism of the fly (seen as a dot on Mary's knee): An insect associated with death and decay. Its presence is contrasted with the saving power of God. If you look at the figure to the left (an unidentified saint), follow his hand that leads the eye to the fruit (of the fall) in Mary's hand, then to the Christ child's hand that reaches for the fruit. Correspondingly the figure of the woman sitting at Mary's feet (identified as Mary Magdalen; often seen as a sinner and the one who washes the Savior's feet) who holds a book. She points to a page in the book, probably a prophecy from Isaiah that speaks of the great Emmanuel and Savior. The message is clear: The fall is overcome by the coming of God to the earth.

Finally, here we are!!! (minus Rex who got sick and remained in Alcalá de Henares :(