BYU Spain Study Abroad

Trip #4 (Part IV) - REGION DE LA RIOJA

La Rioja is traditionally known for being one of Spain's most important wine producing regions. However, given our penchant for being "clean and sober," wine was not our reason for going to this area. What did bring us here was the chance to visit one of the most beautiful regions of Spain and to visit some of the sites along the Santiago Trail. Our first stop was Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

We wanted to see the Cathedral there with its unusual history.

Inside the Cathedral are two interesting sites. First, the tomb of Santo Domingo García. In a simple crypt rests the saint...

Notice the decoration on the side of the tomb. It is of a hen and rooster. We will get the meaning in just a minute. Immediately above the tomb is a more elaborate structure with an effigy of the saint.

Here you will see a beautiful detail that I have not seen anywhere else. At the foot of the effigy you will see two small angels. Each one holds tightly to a covering that they reverently pull up over the saint who appears to sleep. I find the detail to represent a loving respect that mimics God's love.

Now, let's talk a little about the hen and rooster on the side of the saint's tomb. Here is the legend:

"Legend tells of a German Pilgrim called Hugonell who was walking to Santiago with his parents, when they decided to rest at an inn in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The owner of the inn´s daughter immediately fell in love with him; however her feelings were not reciprocated, so the girl, angered, placed a silver cup into his luggage and accused the boy of theft. Thieves at that time were punished by hanging, and this was the fate of Hugonell. His parents, saddened by his death continued the pilgrimage, and upon arriving in Santiago de Compostela, began their return journey to visit the grave of their dead son. When they arrived in Santo Domingo however, they found their son still hanging in the gallows but, miraculously alive. Hugonell, excited, said to them: “Santo Domingo brought back me to life, please go to the Mayor´s house and ask him to take me down”. Quickly, the parents arrived at the Mayor´s house and told him of the miracle. The incredulous Mayor, who was preparing to have dinner with friends, responded: “That boy is as alive as these two roast chickens we are about to eat,” and suddenly, the chickens came to life, sprouted feathers and beaks and began to crow, and so, to this day there is a saying about the town which goes: “Santo Domingo of the Way, where the roosters crow after being roasted”.

In front of the Mausoleum there is a stone, polychrome and gothic Henhouse, which was built in the middle of the XVTH century to keep alive a hen and a rooster in memory of the most famous of Santo Domingo´s miracles. There are documents from Pope Clemente VI dated 1350 allowing these live animals inside the cathedral. Below the cage is a representation of the pilgrim being hanged painted by Alonso Gallego. Above the cage there is a piece of wood from the gallows.

De ahí el dicho:

“Santo Domingo de la Calzada
donde cantó la gallina después de asada”

So... at the foot of the tomb is an altar...

... and in the lighted cage atop you will find a hen and a rooster. The space is never without these two reminders of the miracle.

And that is Santiago de la Calzada!

Next on our trip was a visit to a small mountain town called Ezcaray. The only reason we spent a couple of hours here was because it is so beautiful and typical of this region. Here are some pics:

And, of course my kids couldn't help creating their own version of the Beatles' "Abbey Road" album cover!!

From Ezcaray we swung over to Nájera, another city on the Santiago Trail. This is the river that flows through the city.

Some of the students decided to take advantage of the beautiful river and its surroundings and just rest for a short time:

Others climbed a nearby hill to get an overview of the city:

While exploring, some enjoyed the wild flowers!

Soon we made our way to the Cathedral.

The main altar is beautiful.

Opposite the altar is a cave and just outside the cave are the tombs of kings and queens...

The cave forms the nucleus of the Cathedral's origin. According to legend Rey Garcés was out falconing when his bird flew into a cave where a small chapel had been built. When he entered the cave he found a statue of the Virgin Mary and at her feet a lantern, a bell, and a bouquet of lilies. From that point on the king began to win his fight against the moors. As a result he ordered that the monastery and Cathedral be built.

We spent the night in a nearby city, Navarrete. Interesting story: We were told by our friend who set up the hotels for us that there wasn't anything in Navarrete of interest. It was just a place to stay. Well, we discovered a real jewel in the local church.